Canadian Rockies
Published in Woman's Weekly 18th October 2005
Published in Woman's Weekly 18th October 2005
The Canadian Rockies
For the promised trip of a lifetime I volunteer my personal favourite to your shortlist, which is the majestic unspoilt beauty of the Canadian Rockies. By late spring, the regions abundant downfalls of snow have given way to breathtaking carpets of wild flowers, tumbling waterfalls and jaw-dropping mountain scenery of an almost unimaginable vast scale that will dazzle your senses. Throw in the remarkable opportunities to observe a vast range of wildlife from red squirrel to bears and you have the ingredients for a recipe of memories.
I personally will never forget the magical sighting in the grounds of the famous Banff Springs Hotel of a huge grizzly bear complete with three cubs ambling out of the woods at dusk. In fact, during my week stay, I was lucky enough to observe various thrilling moments with both black and grizzly bears and all viewed from a very safe distance away with the assistance of an experienced guide.
I quickly joined the massed ranks of both local and visitor who could recite without notes, hesitation or deviation one of the three definitive bear tales! It’s all a bit of fun and a great conversation breaker with our hospitable Canadian cousins and certainly beats small talk about the weather.
Banff National Park is the most famous of the Rockies and Canada’s leading tourist attraction which can lead to vast crowds in the peak summer months. The modern roads creak from the convoy of vast RV vehicles driven scarily by inexperienced retirees and packs of coach parties complete with digital cameras to record their whistle stop 5-day world tour.
However, in spring the crowds are manageable and, for a golfer like me, the legendary Fairmont Banff Springs Golf Course with its breathtaking views in all directions was open for business.
For the best views in town you cannot avoid the landmark Gothic super-structure of The Banff Springs Hotel, which remains one of North Americas biggest and most famous hotels. Built in the late 19th century by the Canadian Pacific Railway to accompany and compliment their pioneering railway routes, this “Castle in the Rockies” continues to offer all the style and facilities one could wish.
The town of Banff itself is pleasant enough in an undemanding way and provides a variety of souvenir shops and up-market outdoor equipment/clothes stores for the fashion conscious.
Better ways of spending the day include a ride on the Banff Gondola (cable car) for a 360˚ bird’s eye view of the Bow Valley followed by a soak in the soothing mineral waters of the famous Upper Hot Springs where you can hire elegant 1920’s style historic swimsuits for a tasteful dip.
A gentle and leisurely river float trip along the Bow Valley between Tunnel Mountain and Mount Rundle completes the itinerary and provides an excellent photography opportunity for capturing some stunning images where the river meets the mountains.
Continuing on the water theme and just a 15-minute drive north lies Lake Minnewanka, the largest area of water in the park and a welcome contrast to the bustle of downtown Banff. A boat cruise proves the ideal transport to view the towering peaks and forests of pine and spruce with the added bonus of frequent sightings of a variety of wildlife including the huge Bald Eagle. The climax of the tour is the Devil’s Gap; a glacial path carved through the foothills of the Rockies and a highlight of any trip.
The Icefields Parkway from Banff to Jasper has been described as the world most beautiful road and who am I to disagree as we pass through 230 kilometres of continuous stunning World Heritage Site scenery with a must-see stop at the award-winning destination of the Columbia Icefield, the most accessible glacier in the world. An organised trip on a huge, all-terrain, 6-wheeled ice explorer vehicle offers the experience of a lifetime as the journey takes you to the surface of the Athabasca glacier for an awe-inspiring glimpse of icy crevasses and ice-fed streamlets.
A 1-hour drive north will lead you to the charming small town of Jasper, which has recently been in the spotlight due to the private visit of The Queen and Prince Philip on a short recreational mountain break from their official Canadian tour. As well as attending the little 77-year-old picturesque St. Mary and St. George church for a Sunday service, the Queen and the Duke stayed at the famous Point Cabin at Jasper Park Lodge.
This isolated cabin had previously held guests that included Marilyn Monroe, Bing Crosby, Robert Kennedy and, most famously, the Queen’s own parents on a 1939 tour that was such a success that the Queen Mother would later say “Canada made us”
Jasper offers some the worlds most pristine rivers making them ideal for a spot of white-water rafting with graded runs to suit everyone’s abilities and age. It’s great fun and a truly exhilarating experience when the cold clear water spray hits your face as you paddle downstream with your crew and expert guide. All equipment is provided and there is a huge emphasis on safety.
For milder pleasures there is a plethora of organised hikes and walks with very knowledable and genuinely friendly guides. The information and tales told are a delightful bonus and enrich the whole experience of fully appreciating the wanders of Mother Nature. My favourites include the Johnston Canyon Lowers Falls off the Bow Valley Parkway, Larch Valley and Lake Maligne
For the ultimate thrill you have to take advantage of a guided heli-hike that takes you over aqua-green lakes, glaciers and icefields before dropping you off on a ridge for a guided walk down to the flora and fauna. You certainly feel on top of the world and when you are ready to leave, a quick cell phone call from the guide recalls the helicopter for another fantastic return trip to base.
The self-proclaimed “gem of the Rockies” is Lake Louise. A fitting final destination to any Rockies trip complete with luxury accommodation at the massive lakeside Château. Set your alarm clock early to beat the vast army of tourists and general clutter as nothing can compare to a sunrise hike around the reflective emerald waters of the lake set against the stark backdrop of Victoria Glacier. The scene is truly awesome with a matching smaller neighbour called Moraine Lake that is set amidst the grandeur of the Valley of the Ten Peaks.
For a taste of good old fashioned Canadian Rocky Mountain hospitality head for Num-Ti-Jah Lodge on the shores of the beautiful Bow Lake near Lake Louise. Built in 1920 by the legendary guide and outfitter Jimmy Simpson, Num-Ti-Jah Lodge maintains a pleasing rustic alternative to the opulence of the modern luxury hotel.
For the promised trip of a lifetime I volunteer my personal favourite to your shortlist, which is the majestic unspoilt beauty of the Canadian Rockies. By late spring, the regions abundant downfalls of snow have given way to breathtaking carpets of wild flowers, tumbling waterfalls and jaw-dropping mountain scenery of an almost unimaginable vast scale that will dazzle your senses. Throw in the remarkable opportunities to observe a vast range of wildlife from red squirrel to bears and you have the ingredients for a recipe of memories.
I personally will never forget the magical sighting in the grounds of the famous Banff Springs Hotel of a huge grizzly bear complete with three cubs ambling out of the woods at dusk. In fact, during my week stay, I was lucky enough to observe various thrilling moments with both black and grizzly bears and all viewed from a very safe distance away with the assistance of an experienced guide.
I quickly joined the massed ranks of both local and visitor who could recite without notes, hesitation or deviation one of the three definitive bear tales! It’s all a bit of fun and a great conversation breaker with our hospitable Canadian cousins and certainly beats small talk about the weather.
Banff National Park is the most famous of the Rockies and Canada’s leading tourist attraction which can lead to vast crowds in the peak summer months. The modern roads creak from the convoy of vast RV vehicles driven scarily by inexperienced retirees and packs of coach parties complete with digital cameras to record their whistle stop 5-day world tour.
However, in spring the crowds are manageable and, for a golfer like me, the legendary Fairmont Banff Springs Golf Course with its breathtaking views in all directions was open for business.
For the best views in town you cannot avoid the landmark Gothic super-structure of The Banff Springs Hotel, which remains one of North Americas biggest and most famous hotels. Built in the late 19th century by the Canadian Pacific Railway to accompany and compliment their pioneering railway routes, this “Castle in the Rockies” continues to offer all the style and facilities one could wish.
The town of Banff itself is pleasant enough in an undemanding way and provides a variety of souvenir shops and up-market outdoor equipment/clothes stores for the fashion conscious.
Better ways of spending the day include a ride on the Banff Gondola (cable car) for a 360˚ bird’s eye view of the Bow Valley followed by a soak in the soothing mineral waters of the famous Upper Hot Springs where you can hire elegant 1920’s style historic swimsuits for a tasteful dip.
A gentle and leisurely river float trip along the Bow Valley between Tunnel Mountain and Mount Rundle completes the itinerary and provides an excellent photography opportunity for capturing some stunning images where the river meets the mountains.
Continuing on the water theme and just a 15-minute drive north lies Lake Minnewanka, the largest area of water in the park and a welcome contrast to the bustle of downtown Banff. A boat cruise proves the ideal transport to view the towering peaks and forests of pine and spruce with the added bonus of frequent sightings of a variety of wildlife including the huge Bald Eagle. The climax of the tour is the Devil’s Gap; a glacial path carved through the foothills of the Rockies and a highlight of any trip.
The Icefields Parkway from Banff to Jasper has been described as the world most beautiful road and who am I to disagree as we pass through 230 kilometres of continuous stunning World Heritage Site scenery with a must-see stop at the award-winning destination of the Columbia Icefield, the most accessible glacier in the world. An organised trip on a huge, all-terrain, 6-wheeled ice explorer vehicle offers the experience of a lifetime as the journey takes you to the surface of the Athabasca glacier for an awe-inspiring glimpse of icy crevasses and ice-fed streamlets.
A 1-hour drive north will lead you to the charming small town of Jasper, which has recently been in the spotlight due to the private visit of The Queen and Prince Philip on a short recreational mountain break from their official Canadian tour. As well as attending the little 77-year-old picturesque St. Mary and St. George church for a Sunday service, the Queen and the Duke stayed at the famous Point Cabin at Jasper Park Lodge.
This isolated cabin had previously held guests that included Marilyn Monroe, Bing Crosby, Robert Kennedy and, most famously, the Queen’s own parents on a 1939 tour that was such a success that the Queen Mother would later say “Canada made us”
Jasper offers some the worlds most pristine rivers making them ideal for a spot of white-water rafting with graded runs to suit everyone’s abilities and age. It’s great fun and a truly exhilarating experience when the cold clear water spray hits your face as you paddle downstream with your crew and expert guide. All equipment is provided and there is a huge emphasis on safety.
For milder pleasures there is a plethora of organised hikes and walks with very knowledable and genuinely friendly guides. The information and tales told are a delightful bonus and enrich the whole experience of fully appreciating the wanders of Mother Nature. My favourites include the Johnston Canyon Lowers Falls off the Bow Valley Parkway, Larch Valley and Lake Maligne
For the ultimate thrill you have to take advantage of a guided heli-hike that takes you over aqua-green lakes, glaciers and icefields before dropping you off on a ridge for a guided walk down to the flora and fauna. You certainly feel on top of the world and when you are ready to leave, a quick cell phone call from the guide recalls the helicopter for another fantastic return trip to base.
The self-proclaimed “gem of the Rockies” is Lake Louise. A fitting final destination to any Rockies trip complete with luxury accommodation at the massive lakeside Château. Set your alarm clock early to beat the vast army of tourists and general clutter as nothing can compare to a sunrise hike around the reflective emerald waters of the lake set against the stark backdrop of Victoria Glacier. The scene is truly awesome with a matching smaller neighbour called Moraine Lake that is set amidst the grandeur of the Valley of the Ten Peaks.
For a taste of good old fashioned Canadian Rocky Mountain hospitality head for Num-Ti-Jah Lodge on the shores of the beautiful Bow Lake near Lake Louise. Built in 1920 by the legendary guide and outfitter Jimmy Simpson, Num-Ti-Jah Lodge maintains a pleasing rustic alternative to the opulence of the modern luxury hotel.
